Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Transformation, Breaking, and Runup. I: 1D

Parts I and II of this paper describe the extension and testing of two sets of Boussinesq-type equations to include surf zone phenomena. Part I is restricted to 1D tests of shoaling, breaking, and runup, while Part II deals with two horizontal dimensions. The model uses two main extensions to the Boussinesq equations: a momentum-conserving eddy viscosity technique to model breaking, and a “slotted beach,” which simulates a shoreline while allowing computations over a regular domain. Bottom friction is included, using a quadratic representation, while the 2D implementation of the model also considers subgrid mixing. Comparisons with experimental results for regular and irregular wave shoaling, breaking and runup for both one and two horizontal dimensions show good agreement for a variety of wave conditions.