Liposomal formulation of a vitamin C derivative: a promising strategy to increase skin permeability

This study describes the development of a novel liposomal formulation incorporating 3-<i>O</i>-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid (EAA), a derivative of vitamin C. The EAA-loaded liposomes were fully characterized, particle size and zeta potential values suitable for drug delivery. The skin penetration studies revealed that liposomal formulation enhanced EAA retention in the skin compared to free EAA. Additionally, the impact of topical treatments with liposomal EAA on photo-aging markers in skin explants was investigated. EAA charged liposomes display a protective or stimulatory effect on cellular metabolism. Finally, liposomal EAA have a significant effect on the inflamatory markers, reducing the extracellular matrix degradation associated with UV-induced damage of skin. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential of liposomal formulations for the development of advanced cosmetic products.