Non-Destructive Condition and Damage Assessment of Historic Weighted Silk

Silk weighting is a process used to compensate for the weight loss caused by degumming, achieved by adding agents such as metallic salts to enhance the hand feel and appearance of the fibers. With the development of tin weighting procedures (ca. 1870s), the production of weighted silk tremendously increased, as the fast decay of such fabrics was attributed to the process itself. The weighted silk was largely used for evening wear and high-fashion garments, many of which nowadays are stored in textile collections, and often characterized by poor conservation conditions. Within the present work, a multi-analytical and interdisciplinary non-destructive protocol was established for studying the finishing techniques, characterizing the materials as well as the state of preservation of historic tin-weighted silk. The protocol involves a visual and haptic approach typical of conservation professionals, as well as analytical investigations such as X-Ray Fluorescence analyses, 3D digital microscopy, Scanning Electron Microscopy with Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy, and Fourier-transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) in Attenuated Total Reflection. Elemental analyses are effective for studying the technology of production, while FTIR emerged as a powerful tool for assessing the condition, through the carbonyl and crystallinity indices.