Upcycling versus recycling in fast fashion: A systematic-critical review of circular economy solutions

The linear 'take-make-dispose' model of the fast fashion industry has generated a severe textile waste crisis, demanding a shift towards circular economy resolutions such as upcycling and recycling. Using Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines, synthesizing 143 sources over the period 2013-2025, this systematic-critical review aims to compare the cost, environmental impact, energy, consumer perception, scalability, waste reduction, design and social participation related to both methods. The overall conclusion suggests that upcycling's design and innovative potential are a higher priority internationally. In the short term, upcycling produces the least amount of environmental impact; however, upcycling cannot be scaled economically, as it requires many of man-hours to execute. Recycling, on the other hand, can be successfully scaled to produce large quantities of material recovery (reclamation). However, excessive energy consumption is needed for the recycling processes, as well as technical barriers. Both methods may also lead to greenwashing and disparity in the global distribution of benefits. Therefore, a holistic approach utilizing upcycling for higher value-added products and recycling for bulk waste, and supported through government policies, extended producer responsibility and consumer participation, reflects the healthiest and most equitable approach to establish a sustainable circular fashion economy.