Centennial Transformation of Pattern Design and Craftsmanship for Cantonese Style Cheongsam as a Form of Cultural Expression in China

Background and Aims: The cheongsam is a representative form of Chinese women’s dress. While previous research has focused on the Beijing, Shanghai, and Suzhou schools, the Cantonese style has been less examined. This study investigates the transformation of pattern design and craftsmanship in Cantonese-style cheongsam between 1920 and 2020. Methodology: A qualitative material study was conducted using archival records, museum collections, and verified private collections. Forty garments were selected based on completeness, representativeness of style, and preservation condition. These were divided into five historical periods for comparative analysis. Results: The evolution followed a sequence from traditional to simplified to innovative. For instance, in the 1930s, the middle seam cut was removed in favor of side cuts influenced by Western tailoring. During the 1950s–1970s, decorative embroidery was greatly reduced, while the 2000s introduced digital printing and modular construction. Such changes illustrate both functional adjustments and aesthetic innovations. Conclusion: The Cantonese-style cheongsam demonstrates how traditional dress adapts to shifting social contexts through material and structural transformation while retaining its core identity.