(Re)production and the loss of culture and tradition- a case study of the gendered tradition of <i>Phulkari</i>

Culture is created and modified in stages through human practices comprising numerous elements- products of culture- that are developed, altered, andat times, lost or redefined. This study presents the classical example of ‘Phulkari’- an embroidery technique which represents intergenerational gendered work in parts of Punjab, India. This tradition is rooted in matrilineal practice where the skill and knowledge of this form of embroidery is passed down through generations - symbolizing the love of mothers and grandmothers towards their daughters, embodying their emotions and long-standing heritage. This mixed method empirical study is based on data collected using Questionnaires and Key Informant interviews with female artisans and shop owners who operate small-scale production units in the Adalat Bazaar and Tripuri marketplaces located in the Patiala District of Punjab (India). This study reveals the intricacies surrounding the loss of this gendered tradition. It significantly contributes to the discourse on the intangible value of cultural heritage and emotional connections in the contemporary business of Geographical Indication (GI) tagging. The repercussions of standardization and commercialization include marginalization of women, dismantling of their community spaces, and a decline in the culture of local craft (wo)men, including the values and emotions intertwined with it.